When it comes to skin-care innovations, a remarkable new contender has emerged: secretomes. While ingredients like growth factors, platelet-rich plasma and exosomes have each left their mark on aesthetics, secretomes offer a unique blend of regenerative power sourced directly from the body’s own platelets.
We first learned of secretomes at a plastic surgery conference earlier this year, where many groundbreaking aesthetic advances are debuted. This new technology caught our attention due to its unique ability to harness human cells and deliver potent rejuvenation in a bottle. “It’s going to blow the aesthetic world open,” Miami plastic surgeon Adam Rubinstein, MD, told us.
Featured Experts
- Dr. Sanjay Grover is a board-certified plastic surgeon based in Newport Beach, CA
- Dr. Adam Rubinstein is a board-certified plastic surgeon based in Miami
- Dr. Gilles Spenlehauer, PhD is the former worldwide head of research for L’Oréal
- Rajiv Shukla is the chairman and CEO of Carmell Cosmetics
The Science Behind Secretomes
The term “secretome,” coined in 2004, encompasses a diverse array of proteins released by cells, notably platelets, renowned for their role in tissue repair and wound healing. Newport Beach plastic surgeon Sanjay Grover, MD, describes secretomes as “pivotal” in skin care due to their anti-aging potential. “These ‘natural’ molecules can benefit our skin care products by increasing collagen production, improving wound healing, reducing scars, enhancing tone and texture and boosting skin elasticity and moisture retention,” he explains.
Dr. Gilles Spenlehauer, former head of research at L’Oréal, describes secretomes as “biologically native components.” “They are naturally produced by human organ cells, including the skin, stemming from platelets in the blood. In contrast, traditional skin-care ingredients are typically synthetic chemicals not native to the human body,” he explains. “It’s crucial to recognize that the healthy epidermis of our skin regenerates itself every three weeks throughout our lives, thanks to components like platelet-derived growth factor (PDGF), other proteins and anti-inflammatory biolipids produced by our organ cells.”
In simpler terms, secretomes aid in more effective skin healing and renewal. “They are designed to replicate the regenerative effects of stem cells but without the complexities associated with stem cell therapies,” adds Dr. Rubinstein. This means quicker, more targeted results when using products containing them.
How They Help with Aging Skin
“As we age, our skin accumulates defective patterns such as melanin pigmentation clusters, blemishes, rosacea and fine lines and wrinkles,” explains Dr. Spenlehauer. “Secretomes play an important and complete role in biologically controlling skin regeneration by regulating skin inflammatory patterns, eliminating melanin spots and epidermis dead cells, as well as enhancing skin surface texture by improving fine lines.”
Secretomes vs. Exosomes: How Are They Different?
So, what is the difference between secretomes and exosomes? Though both are involved in cellular communication and regeneration, they differ significantly. According to Dr. Spenlehauer, “Exosomes are small micron vesicles containing various signal proteins that cells use to speak to each other. However, ‘exosome’ is a generic term that does not refer to specific proteins such as PDGF and FGF that we have with secretomes.” Secretomes contain specific growth factors, while exosomes include a broader range of signaling molecules.
“Moreover, attention has been brought to the biochemical instability of exosomes, meaning they are very difficult to formulate in topical cosmetics,” says Dr. Spenlehauer, who points out that secretomes offer a more stable solution, particularly when derived from PRP.
Secretomes in Skin Care
Leading the charge in integrating secretomes into daily routines, Carmell Cosmetics uses the Carmell Secretome to create biocompatible skin care. “The biggest issue with PRP is its autologous nature, meaning you have to use blood from the same person and put it back in the same person,” says Carmell chairman and CEO, Rajiv Shukla. “It’s very hard to stabilize PRP; you know the shelf life of a cell outside the body is four hours and it’s gone.”
Like the human-derived growth factors we’ve seen in other products, the secretomes used in Carmell Cosmetics are derived from human tissue. These are sourced from tissue banks approved by the FDA. “We meticulously test for viral safety, bioactivity and stability,” Shukla notes. “This process involves extensive serology and viral testing, validating their potency and safety for use in treatments ranging from wound healing to cosmetic enhancements.”
As consumer demand shifts toward sustainable and health-conscious options, secretomes are part of a paradigm shift. By harnessing the body’s regenerative power, these innovations promote long-term skin health. “The addition of platelet-derived secretomes in skin care represents a new frontier,” says Dr. Grover. “By leveraging the body’s natural regenerative capabilities with these active molecules, skin-care products can offer improvements in wound healing, anti-aging and overall improved skin appearance.”
